Sunday, December 9, 2012

Sunrise across Cape Kennedy

The sun is rising over the silent silos of Cape Kennedy or Canaveral for those of us who have been around for awhile....,we spent the night anchored in the reflection of the strobes that announce the grand structures that once supported our space program. I am reminded that two years ago we stopped in Titusville hoping to catch the last flight of Endeavour, unfortunately that liftoff was cancelled. due to mechanical problems.  That was the flight that Mark Kelly was on which reminds me that if you have not read his book, "Gabby" about his wife Gabrielle Giffords, it's a worthwhile read from many prospectives.

During our short overnight stay in Beaufort, SC (pronounced bufort) we (I have to specify that as there is a Beaufort NC(pronounced bowfort, named after the same General)  managed a successful score of "Gullah Luv " whose ingredients are listed as Garlic, Oregano, Peppers, Spices, ' n uddan t'ings.  "Gullah Hot" is similar with Cayenne as second ingredient!  Made by Ultimate Gullah in Conway SC, I find that "Gullah Luv" has become one of my favorite spices, of course the local clerk at the register had never tried the spice.  On the way back from our walk into town we walked down the dock to "look at" a trawler... a 53'Selene..."Kraak." We were invited on board, lovely folks from Holland, Jan and Gert Klazinga who spend 6 months of every year cruising in the US on their boat, many glasses of wine later, we stumbled back to town for dinner  (oysters and Gumbo); my plans to "prepare" for our ocean passage on hold.
 
From Beaufort, the morning brought us through Port Royal Sound ( while I made oatmeal, applesauce, meatloaf, stuffed peppers) into the Atlantic Ocean for a glorious, peaceful 24 hour passage outside to St Augustine Inlet where we reentered to the ICW.
There is nothing like the "feel" of the motion of the ocean, although the wind was calm, there was a two to three foot swell that gave the boat a constant motion/movement that was somehow soothing, womb-like, except you had to hold on:) Seemingly endless pods of bottlenose dolphins entertained us as we journeyed south, we came upon a couple of huge napping turtles, such a wonderful sight. The sun set with a magenta palate over the calm sea and we rolled into an evening passage that brought us  across multiple shipping channels, but thanks to AIS (Automated Identification System) and the billion lights that the behemoth ships sport, finding the ships was not a problem.  While at watch at night those big, big guys are not the ships I worry about, it's the little sail boats that in such calm seas might not show on our radar.  Not all sailors are smart enough to take advantage of those nifty radar reflector thingies....I know.... I sailed with those guys......well... at any rate.... obviously we had an "uneventful" overnight passage....if you can call the brilliant waning moon rising over the horizon with the rays of light shimmering off the black glassy surface of the sea that is already shimmering with dancing star reflections "uneventful!" I was spiritually beautiful, something that only a higher power could create.

Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Departing Charleston:(

Departing Charleston is always a challenge for us, departing in pea soup fog is an additional challenge.  I think that Kurt would agree that Charleston is our favorite ICW city with its meandering rivers, picturesque salt marshes, miles of pristine beaches; a city of southern charm and the deliciousness of low country cooking, there is nothing not to like about Charleston.  That being said, we have not been in Charleston in August when it is hot and humid!!

During this stay we had access to our beloved Caddy so got to tour the local ocean beaches of Isle of Palms, Sullivan's Island and Folly Beach where we collected more shells to decorate our little Christmas tree.  We enjoyed a drive through the James Island County Park Holiday Festival of Lights with three miles and 2 million lights arranged in displays of every conceivable design from the Statue of Liberty to a replica of the Ravenel Bridge.  We enjoyed the drive through so much that we drove through it a second time, the only thing missing was our children and grandchildren to share it with. It reminded me of all those trips with family and friends to similar light shows at Jones Beach.....for Kurt, this was a first....how nice was that!

An evening was spent at the historic Circular Congregational Church listening to "the Sounds of Charleston;" jazz, gospel, Gershwin and Mozart (the later expertly rendered on a baby grand piano by a local 17 year old prodigy.)   The three classical pieces so expertly played by the pianist, reminded Kurt of the musicians of his Father's era who weekly gathered around the Steinway in living room in the Patchogue home that brought music and happy memories to his home when he was a child.

A highlight for me on was my ability to share a surprise 80th birthday with my dear friend Rich, who I have been friends with for 45 years, our kids grew up together.  Kurt and I  drove to Mooresville, NC where the  event was hosted at his son Ward's house and although we trickled in at various times, each of us was a surprise.....Happy Birthday Rich!  We love you, may you enjoy many more birthdays.

Staying at City Marina in Charleston is always amusing; if you think that you have a lovely boat, an expensive boat, a large boat, think again......there is always another one that is BIGGER....today the contenders were Timoneer , a 147' ketch with a 31' beam and a mast so tall that it needs to sport a red warning light on top for airplanes!  As lovely as Timoneer is, she is clearly out classed  by diminutive ( 126'loa, 84'lawl) Hanuman, a J Class yacht, a replica of Endeavour II, a sleek racing machine designed in 1937 to regain the America's Cup after it had been won by schooner "American" in 1851; the first time that an American racing yacht was allowed to sail in what was to become the oldest sporting event in the world, the annual race around the Isle of Wight, hosted by Royal Yacht Squadron and called the '100 Guinea Cup'.   In 1937 the Endeavour II was not successful in her bid against the American racing yacht Ranger; the American's Cup, as it was renamed in 1857 by the New York City Yacht Club, was to remain in the hands of an American yacht and crew, until 1983 when for the first time we lost  the  cup after132 years and 26 challenges!