The sun is rising over the silent silos of Cape Kennedy or Canaveral for those of us who have been around for awhile....,we spent the night anchored in the reflection of the strobes that announce the grand structures that once supported our space program. I am reminded that two years ago we stopped in Titusville hoping to catch the last flight of Endeavour, unfortunately that liftoff was cancelled. due to mechanical problems. That was the flight that Mark Kelly was on which reminds me that if you have not read his book, "Gabby" about his wife Gabrielle Giffords, it's a worthwhile read from many prospectives.
During our short overnight stay in Beaufort, SC (pronounced bufort) we (I have to specify that as there is a Beaufort NC(pronounced bowfort, named after the same General) managed a successful score of "Gullah Luv " whose ingredients are listed as Garlic, Oregano, Peppers, Spices, ' n uddan t'ings. "Gullah Hot" is similar with Cayenne as second ingredient! Made by Ultimate Gullah in Conway SC, I find that "Gullah Luv" has become one of my favorite spices, of course the local clerk at the register had never tried the spice. On the way back from our walk into town we walked down the dock to "look at" a trawler... a 53'Selene..."Kraak." We were invited on board, lovely folks from Holland, Jan and Gert Klazinga who spend 6 months of every year cruising in the US on their boat, many glasses of wine later, we stumbled back to town for dinner (oysters and Gumbo); my plans to "prepare" for our ocean passage on hold.
From Beaufort, the morning brought us through Port Royal Sound ( while I made oatmeal, applesauce, meatloaf, stuffed peppers) into the Atlantic Ocean for a glorious, peaceful 24 hour passage outside to St Augustine Inlet where we reentered to the ICW.
There is nothing like the "feel" of the motion of the ocean, although the wind was calm, there was a two to three foot swell that gave the boat a constant motion/movement that was somehow soothing, womb-like, except you had to hold on:) Seemingly endless pods of bottlenose dolphins entertained us as we journeyed south, we came upon a couple of huge napping turtles, such a wonderful sight. The sun set with a magenta palate over the calm sea and we rolled into an evening passage that brought us across multiple shipping channels, but thanks to AIS (Automated Identification System) and the billion lights that the behemoth ships sport, finding the ships was not a problem. While at watch at night those big, big guys are not the ships I worry about, it's the little sail boats that in such calm seas might not show on our radar. Not all sailors are smart enough to take advantage of those nifty radar reflector thingies....I know.... I sailed with those guys......well... at any rate.... obviously we had an "uneventful" overnight passage....if you can call the brilliant waning moon rising over the horizon with the rays of light shimmering off the black glassy surface of the sea that is already shimmering with dancing star reflections "uneventful!" I was spiritually beautiful, something that only a higher power could create.
Sunday, December 9, 2012
Tuesday, December 4, 2012
Departing Charleston:(
Departing Charleston is always a challenge for us, departing in pea soup fog is an additional challenge. I think that Kurt would agree that Charleston is our favorite ICW city with its meandering rivers, picturesque salt marshes, miles of pristine beaches; a city of southern charm and the deliciousness of low country cooking, there is nothing not to like about Charleston. That being said, we have not been in Charleston in August when it is hot and humid!!
During this stay we had access to our beloved Caddy so got to tour the local ocean beaches of Isle of Palms, Sullivan's Island and Folly Beach where we collected more shells to decorate our little Christmas tree. We enjoyed a drive through the James Island County Park Holiday Festival of Lights with three miles and 2 million lights arranged in displays of every conceivable design from the Statue of Liberty to a replica of the Ravenel Bridge. We enjoyed the drive through so much that we drove through it a second time, the only thing missing was our children and grandchildren to share it with. It reminded me of all those trips with family and friends to similar light shows at Jones Beach.....for Kurt, this was a first....how nice was that!
An evening was spent at the historic Circular Congregational Church listening to "the Sounds of Charleston;" jazz, gospel, Gershwin and Mozart (the later expertly rendered on a baby grand piano by a local 17 year old prodigy.) The three classical pieces so expertly played by the pianist, reminded Kurt of the musicians of his Father's era who weekly gathered around the Steinway in living room in the Patchogue home that brought music and happy memories to his home when he was a child.
A highlight for me on was my ability to share a surprise 80th birthday with my dear friend Rich, who I have been friends with for 45 years, our kids grew up together. Kurt and I drove to Mooresville, NC where the event was hosted at his son Ward's house and although we trickled in at various times, each of us was a surprise.....Happy Birthday Rich! We love you, may you enjoy many more birthdays.
Staying at City Marina in Charleston is always amusing; if you think that you have a lovely boat, an expensive boat, a large boat, think again......there is always another one that is BIGGER....today the contenders were Timoneer , a 147' ketch with a 31' beam and a mast so tall that it needs to sport a red warning light on top for airplanes! As lovely as Timoneer is, she is clearly out classed by diminutive ( 126'loa, 84'lawl) Hanuman, a J Class yacht, a replica of Endeavour II, a sleek racing machine designed in 1937 to regain the America's Cup after it had been won by schooner "American" in 1851; the first time that an American racing yacht was allowed to sail in what was to become the oldest sporting event in the world, the annual race around the Isle of Wight, hosted by Royal Yacht Squadron and called the '100 Guinea Cup'. In 1937 the Endeavour II was not successful in her bid against the American racing yacht Ranger; the American's Cup, as it was renamed in 1857 by the New York City Yacht Club, was to remain in the hands of an American yacht and crew, until 1983 when for the first time we lost the cup after132 years and 26 challenges!
During this stay we had access to our beloved Caddy so got to tour the local ocean beaches of Isle of Palms, Sullivan's Island and Folly Beach where we collected more shells to decorate our little Christmas tree. We enjoyed a drive through the James Island County Park Holiday Festival of Lights with three miles and 2 million lights arranged in displays of every conceivable design from the Statue of Liberty to a replica of the Ravenel Bridge. We enjoyed the drive through so much that we drove through it a second time, the only thing missing was our children and grandchildren to share it with. It reminded me of all those trips with family and friends to similar light shows at Jones Beach.....for Kurt, this was a first....how nice was that!
An evening was spent at the historic Circular Congregational Church listening to "the Sounds of Charleston;" jazz, gospel, Gershwin and Mozart (the later expertly rendered on a baby grand piano by a local 17 year old prodigy.) The three classical pieces so expertly played by the pianist, reminded Kurt of the musicians of his Father's era who weekly gathered around the Steinway in living room in the Patchogue home that brought music and happy memories to his home when he was a child.
A highlight for me on was my ability to share a surprise 80th birthday with my dear friend Rich, who I have been friends with for 45 years, our kids grew up together. Kurt and I drove to Mooresville, NC where the event was hosted at his son Ward's house and although we trickled in at various times, each of us was a surprise.....Happy Birthday Rich! We love you, may you enjoy many more birthdays.
Staying at City Marina in Charleston is always amusing; if you think that you have a lovely boat, an expensive boat, a large boat, think again......there is always another one that is BIGGER....today the contenders were Timoneer , a 147' ketch with a 31' beam and a mast so tall that it needs to sport a red warning light on top for airplanes! As lovely as Timoneer is, she is clearly out classed by diminutive ( 126'loa, 84'lawl) Hanuman, a J Class yacht, a replica of Endeavour II, a sleek racing machine designed in 1937 to regain the America's Cup after it had been won by schooner "American" in 1851; the first time that an American racing yacht was allowed to sail in what was to become the oldest sporting event in the world, the annual race around the Isle of Wight, hosted by Royal Yacht Squadron and called the '100 Guinea Cup'. In 1937 the Endeavour II was not successful in her bid against the American racing yacht Ranger; the American's Cup, as it was renamed in 1857 by the New York City Yacht Club, was to remain in the hands of an American yacht and crew, until 1983 when for the first time we lost the cup after132 years and 26 challenges!
Monday, November 26, 2012
Sunny Sunday
Sunday morning brings sunshine, spidery tendrils of frost glistened on the decks and long shadows on shore as we continue along the southern end of the NC ICW. It's so chilly even the diving birds are in foregoing breakfast and are hunkered down, shoulders up, in tight groups on shore facing into the wind, waiting for thermal warming to make the prospect of diving for breakfast more appealing. On the near shore a herd of white tail deer graze on the beach grass across from Mc Mansions standing shoulder to shoulder glazed in beachy pastels of peach, aqua and yellow.
Early afternoon finds us having quietly slipped into South Carolina and me enjoying an endless array of blue herons, Great white Egrets and one stately Bald Eagle perched on a long finger dock stretching out into the ICW, I never tire seeing the magnificence of these intrepid hunters. Thanks to a waxing moon, a banner low tide provides the feathered critters with fertile feeding ground and me with wonderful "eye candy" watching all antics antics as they jockey for the ideal fishing positions (not unlike their human counterparts). Unfortunately the low tide also provides a few navigational challenges and today was my turn at that helm for navigating through the dreaded "Rock Piles." Ironically several miles prior to the rock piles I suffered a momentary disorientation regarding half a dozen red channel markers, a very confusing confluence of tributaries with nasty current and brought us into 6 feet of water (we draw 5.5 feet) so I was sufficiently shaken up to think the dreaded Rock Piles not worthy of my care...as long as I dedicated my full attention to staying between the red and the green channel markers and didn't have my attention wander to Christmas shopping or bird watching, there was no issue with the narrow channel where all those ugly, nasty, jagged rocks stuck up out of the water close enough on either side of the boat to throw a rock at; and who needed those nasty big signs to warn you of DANGER stay in the channel, that are positioned outside the channel, do you think so???? I really needed to ferret out the DANGER signs amidst the red and green channel markers......thank you....I think not....but we made it safely....
At evening we anchorage in the beautiful Cypress River section off the Waccamaw River, a magnificent 140 mile long river that heads through NC and SC, bordered by Spanish moss draped cypress, live oaks and the remnants of rice fields from plantation days. Our anchorage was completely surrounded by cypress trees shrouded in moss, a slight current kept us pointing so the nearly full moon graced our dining table.
Monday morning dawned to a cloudless sky with a creek haze lazily drifting, dancing across the long sun's rays peeking over the tree tops. After just entering the main channel of the Waccamaw we were treated to the tree top splendor of an osprey warming herself and further along a golden eagle, perched in the highest branch of the tallest tree, resplendent with the sunlight reflecting off her breast as if lit from within.....a glorious sight......
Early afternoon finds us having quietly slipped into South Carolina and me enjoying an endless array of blue herons, Great white Egrets and one stately Bald Eagle perched on a long finger dock stretching out into the ICW, I never tire seeing the magnificence of these intrepid hunters. Thanks to a waxing moon, a banner low tide provides the feathered critters with fertile feeding ground and me with wonderful "eye candy" watching all antics antics as they jockey for the ideal fishing positions (not unlike their human counterparts). Unfortunately the low tide also provides a few navigational challenges and today was my turn at that helm for navigating through the dreaded "Rock Piles." Ironically several miles prior to the rock piles I suffered a momentary disorientation regarding half a dozen red channel markers, a very confusing confluence of tributaries with nasty current and brought us into 6 feet of water (we draw 5.5 feet) so I was sufficiently shaken up to think the dreaded Rock Piles not worthy of my care...as long as I dedicated my full attention to staying between the red and the green channel markers and didn't have my attention wander to Christmas shopping or bird watching, there was no issue with the narrow channel where all those ugly, nasty, jagged rocks stuck up out of the water close enough on either side of the boat to throw a rock at; and who needed those nasty big signs to warn you of DANGER stay in the channel, that are positioned outside the channel, do you think so???? I really needed to ferret out the DANGER signs amidst the red and green channel markers......thank you....I think not....but we made it safely....
At evening we anchorage in the beautiful Cypress River section off the Waccamaw River, a magnificent 140 mile long river that heads through NC and SC, bordered by Spanish moss draped cypress, live oaks and the remnants of rice fields from plantation days. Our anchorage was completely surrounded by cypress trees shrouded in moss, a slight current kept us pointing so the nearly full moon graced our dining table.
Monday morning dawned to a cloudless sky with a creek haze lazily drifting, dancing across the long sun's rays peeking over the tree tops. After just entering the main channel of the Waccamaw we were treated to the tree top splendor of an osprey warming herself and further along a golden eagle, perched in the highest branch of the tallest tree, resplendent with the sunlight reflecting off her breast as if lit from within.....a glorious sight......
Saturday, November 24, 2012
Exciting Day
Awoke to the gentle movement of the the boat which meant that we were float, this is a good thing, but not necessarily something to be taken for granted......
Yesterday started with taking on of 608 gals. of diesel fuel which gives us a slight port list, has always given us a slight port list, not usually a problem.
The weather Goddess had bestowed upon the collective us a beauty, warm, sunny perfect day for the dozens of fishermen hoping to catch a trout (weakfish), we were enjoying the sun dancing of the marsh grasses glistening golden, as flocks of terns and pelicans dove for lunch. Our peaceful quietude was rudely shattered by the shrill of the high water alarm. If you have ever heard the sound of a school fire alarm, you know the decibel range of the high water and the high temp alarm on our boat, it is LOUD. Now let me point out that until very recently these alarms were located in the engine room where only the engine room fairies could hear them so they were relatively useless. After our second near disaster with an engine overheating due to a failed impeller, our collective intelligence decided to relocate the alarms to a place where we could hear them and hear the alarm we did. I have no doubt that the folks in their homes on shore enjoying a post-Thanksgiving Day turkey sandwich also heard our alarm. The alarm sounded, we looked at each other, not processing which alarm was going off, a quick look at the temp gauges eliminated an overheat situation, so that left the uncomfortable reality of high water in the bilge! A first for us. Hmmmm, now neither of us is prone to panic and each is analytical, experienced boaters, I got to run the boat while Kurt got to figure out what the problem was, a combination of factors: empty 220 gal water tank in bow, very full fuel tanks (4 ), the inflatable is now suspended off the transom with the outboard to port; with the result that the discharge fitting for one of the bilge pumps was thus under water on the listing port side and therefore back-filling into the bilge and the other bilge pumps were not able to keep up with the task of pumping the water out! I am reminded of one of the many books that I have read about Coast Guard rescues of men from fishing boats that are sinking in challenging sea conditions because they have been structurally modified and overloaded. How easily and quickly a peaceful day can become a challenging one, I am very thankful for our obnoxious alarm and that we didn't have to rely on the engine room fairies to alert us to the danger and grateful to my clever husband for quickly figuring out what the problem was and fixing it:)
On a positive note, we missed a bridge that opens on the hour, so by the time we waited for the next opening,we ended up in Harbor Village Marina, a lovely deep water place, where a pair of Kingfishers were oblivious to our presence and busy with their aerial acrobatics and incessant chatter as they prepared for nightfall against a magnificent magenta sunset. All's well that ends well.
Yesterday started with taking on of 608 gals. of diesel fuel which gives us a slight port list, has always given us a slight port list, not usually a problem.
The weather Goddess had bestowed upon the collective us a beauty, warm, sunny perfect day for the dozens of fishermen hoping to catch a trout (weakfish), we were enjoying the sun dancing of the marsh grasses glistening golden, as flocks of terns and pelicans dove for lunch. Our peaceful quietude was rudely shattered by the shrill of the high water alarm. If you have ever heard the sound of a school fire alarm, you know the decibel range of the high water and the high temp alarm on our boat, it is LOUD. Now let me point out that until very recently these alarms were located in the engine room where only the engine room fairies could hear them so they were relatively useless. After our second near disaster with an engine overheating due to a failed impeller, our collective intelligence decided to relocate the alarms to a place where we could hear them and hear the alarm we did. I have no doubt that the folks in their homes on shore enjoying a post-Thanksgiving Day turkey sandwich also heard our alarm. The alarm sounded, we looked at each other, not processing which alarm was going off, a quick look at the temp gauges eliminated an overheat situation, so that left the uncomfortable reality of high water in the bilge! A first for us. Hmmmm, now neither of us is prone to panic and each is analytical, experienced boaters, I got to run the boat while Kurt got to figure out what the problem was, a combination of factors: empty 220 gal water tank in bow, very full fuel tanks (4 ), the inflatable is now suspended off the transom with the outboard to port; with the result that the discharge fitting for one of the bilge pumps was thus under water on the listing port side and therefore back-filling into the bilge and the other bilge pumps were not able to keep up with the task of pumping the water out! I am reminded of one of the many books that I have read about Coast Guard rescues of men from fishing boats that are sinking in challenging sea conditions because they have been structurally modified and overloaded. How easily and quickly a peaceful day can become a challenging one, I am very thankful for our obnoxious alarm and that we didn't have to rely on the engine room fairies to alert us to the danger and grateful to my clever husband for quickly figuring out what the problem was and fixing it:)
On a positive note, we missed a bridge that opens on the hour, so by the time we waited for the next opening,we ended up in Harbor Village Marina, a lovely deep water place, where a pair of Kingfishers were oblivious to our presence and busy with their aerial acrobatics and incessant chatter as they prepared for nightfall against a magnificent magenta sunset. All's well that ends well.
Thursday, November 22, 2012
Fall 2012
After a blog-less stint of many months it seems time to reboot and record some of the events of the errant time that has slipped by so quickly.....a fabulous wedding for Robyn and Gerry: a son leaves home, a daughter-in-law and her family join our family.
Cruising plans swiftly shift from the Great Loop to more local exploration of the Hudson RIver, Erie Canal system to Utica, Champlain Canal system and Lake Champlain to Burlington. The cruising was grand, the rivers and lakes beautiful, experiences with going through the 50 or so locks amusing. We had access to a car much or the time so we toured the majesty of the Adirondack's, stood on the Olympic ski jump at Lake Placid, and visited Old Quebec City, Overall it was a lovely summer and fall spent in the splendor of our our back yard.
Happy Thanksgiving!
It's finally almost sunny after seven consecutive days, since leaving Annapolis, MD, of cloudy, cold, very windy (25-40k) weather. It's 0800 and we are lumping (it's still very windy) down the Neuse River in NC (the widest River in the US) after spending a delightful couple of days in New Bern; the second oldest town in NC, formerly an Indian town named Chattoka, that served as the capital of the North Carolina colonial government and briefly as North Carolina's first capital. It is rich in history and southern charm, named for Bern the the capital of Switzerland and founded by Swiss and German settlers in 1710. What is unique about this lovely southern city is that the original homes survived the Civil War; the Battle of New Bern on March 14 1862 resulted in New Bern coming under Federal Control and it remained so for the rest of the War, thus the beautiful homes and churches were spared the ravages of war (Sherman) that we have heard reported in so many other southern cities especially in SC.
This afternoon after threading Moorehead City environs the weather has finally improved gracing us with sunshine, and warmth, punctuated with diving pelicans and pods of graceful bottlenose dolphins and a bald eagle, dancing on wild wind cords, resplendent in her mature feathers. Happy Thanksgiving and blessing to family and friends.
Cruising plans swiftly shift from the Great Loop to more local exploration of the Hudson RIver, Erie Canal system to Utica, Champlain Canal system and Lake Champlain to Burlington. The cruising was grand, the rivers and lakes beautiful, experiences with going through the 50 or so locks amusing. We had access to a car much or the time so we toured the majesty of the Adirondack's, stood on the Olympic ski jump at Lake Placid, and visited Old Quebec City, Overall it was a lovely summer and fall spent in the splendor of our our back yard.
Happy Thanksgiving!
It's finally almost sunny after seven consecutive days, since leaving Annapolis, MD, of cloudy, cold, very windy (25-40k) weather. It's 0800 and we are lumping (it's still very windy) down the Neuse River in NC (the widest River in the US) after spending a delightful couple of days in New Bern; the second oldest town in NC, formerly an Indian town named Chattoka, that served as the capital of the North Carolina colonial government and briefly as North Carolina's first capital. It is rich in history and southern charm, named for Bern the the capital of Switzerland and founded by Swiss and German settlers in 1710. What is unique about this lovely southern city is that the original homes survived the Civil War; the Battle of New Bern on March 14 1862 resulted in New Bern coming under Federal Control and it remained so for the rest of the War, thus the beautiful homes and churches were spared the ravages of war (Sherman) that we have heard reported in so many other southern cities especially in SC.
This afternoon after threading Moorehead City environs the weather has finally improved gracing us with sunshine, and warmth, punctuated with diving pelicans and pods of graceful bottlenose dolphins and a bald eagle, dancing on wild wind cords, resplendent in her mature feathers. Happy Thanksgiving and blessing to family and friends.
Saturday, May 5, 2012
Home Again, Home Again, Jiggity, Jig
We're heading down the LI Sound to Mt. Sinai Yacht Club, on the final leg of this portion of the journey. We will be land based for a month, with the wonderful wedding celebration for Gerry and Robyn to highlight the month.
Long Island Sound is welcoming us with a gentle chop in 10 kt E wind and pea soup fog, although I do not know why any one would refer to fog a pea soup-like, if it's got to be soup-like, it is more like thick, creamy New England Clam Chowder!
Yesterday brought us from Atlantic City, up the NJ coast, under the Verrazano Bridge, up the East River, past the Freedom Tower/ One World Trade Center, the construction cranes on top at 1,271' shrouded in fog. A power symbol of the resilience and tenacity of our great Country, a sad reminder of all those who were lost on 9-11, just 10 years ago. A symbolic hi to Kurt Jr and Daniele who were at their respective places of employment on Manhattan, passing under the Whitestone and Throgs Neck bridges into the LI Sound and to Oyster Bay. We stayed on a mooring at the Sewanhaka Corinthian Yacht Club (a mouthful when hailing them on the radio) and enjoyed a phenomenally delicious dinner at the club (note to self, jackets are required attire.)
The weekend of April 29 found me flying to NY where I was privileged to partake in a bridal shower for Robyn, my soon-to-be daughter-in-law. The event was hosted at the Country House in Stony Brook; the atmosphere was old country charming, the food delicious and the company wonderful. I'm so happy that Robyn is going be Jerry's wife.
During my absence last weekend Kurt moved the boat form Coinjock to Portsmouth where he entertained himself, enjoying the companionship of Bob who owns Mile Marker Zero Marine Supplies, and eating at the local German Bier Garden. After his little mishap on the motor bile (or should I say off the bike) while in FL., he correctly perceived that I would not be a willing rider on the scooter so he "off-loaded" the scooter and left it for Bob to sell in his marring store. Before we depart for the "Great Loop" passage we will look for a couple of bicycles to add to the "stuff" on the top deck of the boat.
Upon departing Portsmouth, VA we decided on an "outside" run with the duration of that run to be determined by the weather and the availability of a navigable inlet. The weather Gods cooperated and we enjoyed moderate winds form the SW (behind up therefore a "following" sea.) Late afternoon found us deciding on an overnighter, we enjoyed a surprise, unlabeled dinner of turkey chili that I expected to be peppers and sausage.....always an adventure dining from my onboard freezer. The overnight passage was peaceful, with a half waning moon, scattered clouds, moderate seas, literally no other boat traffic; I thoroughly enjoyed the solitary peaceful passage. By 3:30a.m. when Kurt took the watch the seas were responding to the 15-20 kt of NE wind that arrived at midnight, my slumber was analogous to sleeping in a dryer placed on a see-saw. By 7 a.m. it was obvious that sea conditions were only going to worsen so angled for Atlantic City the nearest inlet arriving there at 11:30 a.m. The day was cold and blustery, a great day for a cup of soup and nap after washing the salt and dead flies (another story) from our little ship.
Apparently our departure form the Chesapeake from Portsmouth was a welcome relief to several hundred biting black flies that were intent on hitching a ride with us as we motored North. We spent much of the our ocean passage smacking at flies with our two fly swatters that we procured on our first passage through the Chesapeake when we stopped at Swan Creek. Chesapeake flies are like the black flies that terrorize folks in Maine, but these are on steroids. I think that we are now down to half a dozen of the cheeky bastards. Hopefully they will not follow us when we drive to Patchogue!
Long Island Sound is welcoming us with a gentle chop in 10 kt E wind and pea soup fog, although I do not know why any one would refer to fog a pea soup-like, if it's got to be soup-like, it is more like thick, creamy New England Clam Chowder!
Yesterday brought us from Atlantic City, up the NJ coast, under the Verrazano Bridge, up the East River, past the Freedom Tower/ One World Trade Center, the construction cranes on top at 1,271' shrouded in fog. A power symbol of the resilience and tenacity of our great Country, a sad reminder of all those who were lost on 9-11, just 10 years ago. A symbolic hi to Kurt Jr and Daniele who were at their respective places of employment on Manhattan, passing under the Whitestone and Throgs Neck bridges into the LI Sound and to Oyster Bay. We stayed on a mooring at the Sewanhaka Corinthian Yacht Club (a mouthful when hailing them on the radio) and enjoyed a phenomenally delicious dinner at the club (note to self, jackets are required attire.)
The weekend of April 29 found me flying to NY where I was privileged to partake in a bridal shower for Robyn, my soon-to-be daughter-in-law. The event was hosted at the Country House in Stony Brook; the atmosphere was old country charming, the food delicious and the company wonderful. I'm so happy that Robyn is going be Jerry's wife.
During my absence last weekend Kurt moved the boat form Coinjock to Portsmouth where he entertained himself, enjoying the companionship of Bob who owns Mile Marker Zero Marine Supplies, and eating at the local German Bier Garden. After his little mishap on the motor bile (or should I say off the bike) while in FL., he correctly perceived that I would not be a willing rider on the scooter so he "off-loaded" the scooter and left it for Bob to sell in his marring store. Before we depart for the "Great Loop" passage we will look for a couple of bicycles to add to the "stuff" on the top deck of the boat.
Upon departing Portsmouth, VA we decided on an "outside" run with the duration of that run to be determined by the weather and the availability of a navigable inlet. The weather Gods cooperated and we enjoyed moderate winds form the SW (behind up therefore a "following" sea.) Late afternoon found us deciding on an overnighter, we enjoyed a surprise, unlabeled dinner of turkey chili that I expected to be peppers and sausage.....always an adventure dining from my onboard freezer. The overnight passage was peaceful, with a half waning moon, scattered clouds, moderate seas, literally no other boat traffic; I thoroughly enjoyed the solitary peaceful passage. By 3:30a.m. when Kurt took the watch the seas were responding to the 15-20 kt of NE wind that arrived at midnight, my slumber was analogous to sleeping in a dryer placed on a see-saw. By 7 a.m. it was obvious that sea conditions were only going to worsen so angled for Atlantic City the nearest inlet arriving there at 11:30 a.m. The day was cold and blustery, a great day for a cup of soup and nap after washing the salt and dead flies (another story) from our little ship.
Apparently our departure form the Chesapeake from Portsmouth was a welcome relief to several hundred biting black flies that were intent on hitching a ride with us as we motored North. We spent much of the our ocean passage smacking at flies with our two fly swatters that we procured on our first passage through the Chesapeake when we stopped at Swan Creek. Chesapeake flies are like the black flies that terrorize folks in Maine, but these are on steroids. I think that we are now down to half a dozen of the cheeky bastards. Hopefully they will not follow us when we drive to Patchogue!
Tuesday, April 24, 2012
Departing Charleston
A chilly morning greets us as we depart from Wacca Wache Marina on the Waccmaw River; that has a ring to it doesn't it. Like fairies with gossamer wings dancing a ballet, the mist dances across the top of the meandering river's surface, barn swallows sporting forked tuxedo tails and buff shirts flit about devouring insect munchies. The startling white caps of osprey heads pop up in curiosity from their stick nests that adorn the tops of channel markers. From the shadows of the forest of Atlantic white cedar, cypress and live oak trees festooned with Spanish moss, the sun peaks through the tree tops casting a verdant glow on the western shore.
Our week in Charleston was enhanced by the companionship of Gloria and Charlie Burton who joined us for five days. An impromptu visit from Gloria's sister Nanette and her husband Richie was a delight and they joined us in a tour of Magnolia Plantation featuring America's oldest gardens (c. 1680) and garden tour (c. 1870.) The beauty of the gardens awaits around every corner, and a tram ride brought us through wet lands teaming with waterfowl, alligators and turtles.
A tour of the Charleston Tea Plantation (the only tea plantation in North America) brought us to the 127 acres of Camellia Sinensis tea plants that are grown in the heart of South Carolina's Lowcountry, complete with a tour of the Tea Factory where the all natural tea is processed. In addition to learning about the process, the delicious tastings of the variety of teas was a treat.
The Gullah also called Geechee, are African Americans who live in the low country of South Carolina and Georgia including the coastal plain and Sea Islands. They are the descendants of the slaves brought to this country who have preserved much of their African linguistic and cultural heritage. The name Gullah is thought to derive from "Gola" an ethnic group living in the boarder area between Sierra Leone and Liberia in West Africa. Sierra Leone, the "Rice Coast" with it's farms where rice was cultivated for 3000 years, is an area that was "home" to the majority of the individuals who, with their skills of rice cultivation and tidal irrigation, became the slaves with the muscle and mind who virtually assured the success of the Carolina rice plantations. The Gullah speak an English-based creole language containing many African loanwords and significant influences from African languages in grammar and sentence structure. A fascinating "Gullah tour" brought us to a greater understanding of the complexities of the trials that the slaves faced and their amazing endurance and ability to survive the overwhelming adversity of slave life while maintaining ties to their heritage.
As mentioned in a "The Ultimate Gullah Cookbook,"
Gullah "Sayin' Grace: Gawd beeba great and e beena good
En we da thank e for we food
By e hand we be fed
Gi us Gawd we daily bread
Amen"
Our knowledgeable tour guide explained to us about the origins of "Porgy and Bess," the 1934 musical composed by George Gershwin. It was based on the novel "Porgy," written in 1925 by DuBose Heyward, who was a native of Charleston; the African-American life of the fictions "Porgy" was based on the real-life Charlestonian Samuel Smalls who lived in the tenements of Cabbage Row.
Resting place of Samuel Smalls
The Gullah tour also brought us to the magnificence of the Angel Oak tree on Johns Island, thought to be between 500 and 1,500 years old, making it one of the oldest live oaks in the country. At 65' it's relatively short but it does not lack for foliage coverage with its tree trunk size branches covering an impressive 17,000 square feet (.39 acres.)
Charlie and Kurt
Gloria and Charlie were wonderful companions during our stay in Charleston, we enjoyed all the new experiences and sharing the traditional Charleston carriage tour and the boat trip to Fort Sumter; of course there is also all that wonderful "low country culinary excellence that we so enjoyed.
Our week in Charleston was enhanced by the companionship of Gloria and Charlie Burton who joined us for five days. An impromptu visit from Gloria's sister Nanette and her husband Richie was a delight and they joined us in a tour of Magnolia Plantation featuring America's oldest gardens (c. 1680) and garden tour (c. 1870.) The beauty of the gardens awaits around every corner, and a tram ride brought us through wet lands teaming with waterfowl, alligators and turtles.
A tour of the Charleston Tea Plantation (the only tea plantation in North America) brought us to the 127 acres of Camellia Sinensis tea plants that are grown in the heart of South Carolina's Lowcountry, complete with a tour of the Tea Factory where the all natural tea is processed. In addition to learning about the process, the delicious tastings of the variety of teas was a treat.
The Gullah also called Geechee, are African Americans who live in the low country of South Carolina and Georgia including the coastal plain and Sea Islands. They are the descendants of the slaves brought to this country who have preserved much of their African linguistic and cultural heritage. The name Gullah is thought to derive from "Gola" an ethnic group living in the boarder area between Sierra Leone and Liberia in West Africa. Sierra Leone, the "Rice Coast" with it's farms where rice was cultivated for 3000 years, is an area that was "home" to the majority of the individuals who, with their skills of rice cultivation and tidal irrigation, became the slaves with the muscle and mind who virtually assured the success of the Carolina rice plantations. The Gullah speak an English-based creole language containing many African loanwords and significant influences from African languages in grammar and sentence structure. A fascinating "Gullah tour" brought us to a greater understanding of the complexities of the trials that the slaves faced and their amazing endurance and ability to survive the overwhelming adversity of slave life while maintaining ties to their heritage.
As mentioned in a "The Ultimate Gullah Cookbook,"
Gullah "Sayin' Grace: Gawd beeba great and e beena good
En we da thank e for we food
By e hand we be fed
Gi us Gawd we daily bread
Amen"
Our knowledgeable tour guide explained to us about the origins of "Porgy and Bess," the 1934 musical composed by George Gershwin. It was based on the novel "Porgy," written in 1925 by DuBose Heyward, who was a native of Charleston; the African-American life of the fictions "Porgy" was based on the real-life Charlestonian Samuel Smalls who lived in the tenements of Cabbage Row.
The Gullah tour also brought us to the magnificence of the Angel Oak tree on Johns Island, thought to be between 500 and 1,500 years old, making it one of the oldest live oaks in the country. At 65' it's relatively short but it does not lack for foliage coverage with its tree trunk size branches covering an impressive 17,000 square feet (.39 acres.)
Gloria and Charlie were wonderful companions during our stay in Charleston, we enjoyed all the new experiences and sharing the traditional Charleston carriage tour and the boat trip to Fort Sumter; of course there is also all that wonderful "low country culinary excellence that we so enjoyed.
Friday, April 13, 2012
Northern Georgia to Charleston; April 9-13, 2012
Sunrise greets us with brisk, 49° temperature, a howling 22 kt wind and mega current as we pull away from the dock at Isle of Hope Marina. Unfortunately it is dead low tide, fortunately I am not at the helm so I can pretend to ignore the bellowing beep of the depth recorder that is announcing the obvious. Georgia is the most difficult state to navigate on the ICW; a serpentine ribbon of convoluted twists and turns amid shoaling superimposed on uncharted shallows, it challenges even seasoned yachts persons. To add to the adrenalin flow, the effects of bank cushion and bank suction occasionally skew the bow towards a not so distant bank of muck with such speed and thrust that the captain could believe that Neptune has taken hold of the vessel and decided to rough-house. The good news of the low tide is that we fit under one of the bridges that we would otherwise have to wait to open 40 minutes form now.
On Monday we departed Daytona Beach where we left the boat for a brief shore respite to visit with my sister, Elaine and and her husband, Ron. My daughter Daniele joined us for a casual weekend of culinary excess and chocolate, but it was Easter so those chocolate calories do not count; unfortunately my scale did not get that fax.
Several days ago wanting to exit the ICW for an ocean passage, thereby avoiding some of Georgia, on the shore of the St. John's River and were treated to a view of a grand old vessel the Atlantis II, a 219' Woods Hole Oceanographic Research Vessel that supported the deep-diving three person submersible Alvin, that was instrumental in the of exploration of the remains of the R.M.S. Titanic. Atlantis II in her 33 years of service covered over a million miles on 468 cruises while spending 8,115 days at sea in every ocean in the world, visiting 78 nations and over 112 ports while conducting marine research and engineering projects. In 1963 her second voyage was interrupted when the U.S. Nuclear Submarine "Thrasher" sunk 220 miles east of Cape Cod in 8,400 feet of water, tragically extinguishing the lives of 129 sailors. Atlantis II aided in the search and recorded the first photographs of the remains of the Thrasher, earning her commendation form the U.S. Navy. She was the among the first research vessels to employ female officers and crew and welcome female scientists:) If you're interested, she's for sale for $8,800,000.
Atlantis II
Day one of our ocean passage was calm and peaceful; Pelicans, flocks of Common Terns, Wilson's Storm Petrel and Northern Gannets provide eye candy for the soul; small ocean waves gently roll under the hull providing a womb-like peacefulness. In the distance city-block-size freighters appear on the horizon, later providing navigational challenges with their speed and unyielding bulk as we traverse inlets.
Early in the second day in the ocean, as the wind picked up above 20kts, agitating the seas, (and us) making for an uncomfortable passage( a decidedly erroneous weather forecast by NOAA) we went into St. Simon's inlet back to the ICW while still in Georgia. As we round the first bend of the waterway our progress is noted by majestic Bald Eagle who warily watches from his lofty perch on a bleached tree branch. Again I was reminded of the natural beauty of the hundred of miles of salt marsh that provide nourishment for the ecosystem.
While in the ocean I hoped to catch a glimpse of any of the few remaining North Atlantic Right Whales that are migrating up the coast from Georgia and Florida where they calve, to the NE from NY to Nova Scotia where they spend the summer. One of the most endangered whales in the world, fewer than 450 North Atlantic right whales are alive today, the species initially decimated by whaling, is today struggling to survive in an ocean that threatens their survival by entanglement in commercial fishing gear and strikes by behemoth transport ships; nearly three-quarters of the known whales bear scars from past entanglement in fishing gear, while 29% of documented right whale deaths since 1970 are from collisions with ships inflicting a fatal blow to the slow moving baleen whales. Interestingly NOAA, in association with the National Park Service, USCG, the Fund for Animal Welfare and other partners, has developed system whereby ships can receive real-time warning about the presence of whales through a free app (Whale Alert) on their iPhone or iPad. The location of the whales is detected through a system of acoustic buoys that listen for the right whale calls in and around the Stellwagen Bank National Sanctuary. Hopefully this and other conservation/preservation measures will save the whale population.
When underway we always monitor a pair of VHF radios, one always on Channel 16 the U. S. Coast Guard distress and hailing channel where we are privy to a stream of messages from the CG; among them messages regarding the North Atlantic right whale speed restrictions and voluntary vessel rerouting in certain geographic areas at certain times: http://www.nmfs.noaa.gov/pr/shipstrike/. All too frequently we hear "Pan, Pan, Pan" announcements from the Coast Guard regarding information on a signal they received form an EPIRB or a report of a vessel that is "overdue," not having arrived at its destination as planned; mariners are advised to keep a lookout for the vessel. We almost never have a postscript to these announcements; although we know that one of the "overdue" sailboats reported missing last fall as we cruised south never did safely arrive, it's owner/captain, a surgeon from Charleston presumed lost in the never-to-be underestimated, unforgiving sea.
This morning as we depart the pristine ToogoodooEdisto River in SC., dolphin lazily frolic, (is that an oxymoron?), pied-billed Grebes appear and disappear beneath the calm surface, as a marbled Godwit pokes the muddy shore seeking a breakfast feast. We are on our last 30 mile jaunt to Charleston where friends Charlie and Gloria will join us for days of culinary decadence in the midst of historically magnificent architecture.
On Monday we departed Daytona Beach where we left the boat for a brief shore respite to visit with my sister, Elaine and and her husband, Ron. My daughter Daniele joined us for a casual weekend of culinary excess and chocolate, but it was Easter so those chocolate calories do not count; unfortunately my scale did not get that fax.
Several days ago wanting to exit the ICW for an ocean passage, thereby avoiding some of Georgia, on the shore of the St. John's River and were treated to a view of a grand old vessel the Atlantis II, a 219' Woods Hole Oceanographic Research Vessel that supported the deep-diving three person submersible Alvin, that was instrumental in the of exploration of the remains of the R.M.S. Titanic. Atlantis II in her 33 years of service covered over a million miles on 468 cruises while spending 8,115 days at sea in every ocean in the world, visiting 78 nations and over 112 ports while conducting marine research and engineering projects. In 1963 her second voyage was interrupted when the U.S. Nuclear Submarine "Thrasher" sunk 220 miles east of Cape Cod in 8,400 feet of water, tragically extinguishing the lives of 129 sailors. Atlantis II aided in the search and recorded the first photographs of the remains of the Thrasher, earning her commendation form the U.S. Navy. She was the among the first research vessels to employ female officers and crew and welcome female scientists:) If you're interested, she's for sale for $8,800,000.
Day one of our ocean passage was calm and peaceful; Pelicans, flocks of Common Terns, Wilson's Storm Petrel and Northern Gannets provide eye candy for the soul; small ocean waves gently roll under the hull providing a womb-like peacefulness. In the distance city-block-size freighters appear on the horizon, later providing navigational challenges with their speed and unyielding bulk as we traverse inlets.
Early in the second day in the ocean, as the wind picked up above 20kts, agitating the seas, (and us) making for an uncomfortable passage( a decidedly erroneous weather forecast by NOAA) we went into St. Simon's inlet back to the ICW while still in Georgia. As we round the first bend of the waterway our progress is noted by majestic Bald Eagle who warily watches from his lofty perch on a bleached tree branch. Again I was reminded of the natural beauty of the hundred of miles of salt marsh that provide nourishment for the ecosystem.
While in the ocean I hoped to catch a glimpse of any of the few remaining North Atlantic Right Whales that are migrating up the coast from Georgia and Florida where they calve, to the NE from NY to Nova Scotia where they spend the summer. One of the most endangered whales in the world, fewer than 450 North Atlantic right whales are alive today, the species initially decimated by whaling, is today struggling to survive in an ocean that threatens their survival by entanglement in commercial fishing gear and strikes by behemoth transport ships; nearly three-quarters of the known whales bear scars from past entanglement in fishing gear, while 29% of documented right whale deaths since 1970 are from collisions with ships inflicting a fatal blow to the slow moving baleen whales. Interestingly NOAA, in association with the National Park Service, USCG, the Fund for Animal Welfare and other partners, has developed system whereby ships can receive real-time warning about the presence of whales through a free app (Whale Alert) on their iPhone or iPad. The location of the whales is detected through a system of acoustic buoys that listen for the right whale calls in and around the Stellwagen Bank National Sanctuary. Hopefully this and other conservation/preservation measures will save the whale population.
When underway we always monitor a pair of VHF radios, one always on Channel 16 the U. S. Coast Guard distress and hailing channel where we are privy to a stream of messages from the CG; among them messages regarding the North Atlantic right whale speed restrictions and voluntary vessel rerouting in certain geographic areas at certain times: http://www.nmfs.noaa.gov/pr/shipstrike/. All too frequently we hear "Pan, Pan, Pan" announcements from the Coast Guard regarding information on a signal they received form an EPIRB or a report of a vessel that is "overdue," not having arrived at its destination as planned; mariners are advised to keep a lookout for the vessel. We almost never have a postscript to these announcements; although we know that one of the "overdue" sailboats reported missing last fall as we cruised south never did safely arrive, it's owner/captain, a surgeon from Charleston presumed lost in the never-to-be underestimated, unforgiving sea.
This morning as we depart the pristine ToogoodooEdisto River in SC., dolphin lazily frolic, (is that an oxymoron?), pied-billed Grebes appear and disappear beneath the calm surface, as a marbled Godwit pokes the muddy shore seeking a breakfast feast. We are on our last 30 mile jaunt to Charleston where friends Charlie and Gloria will join us for days of culinary decadence in the midst of historically magnificent architecture.
Friday, April 6, 2012
We are back from the family reunion (Sylvia's family) in Austin TX @ Lake Travis…a huge man-made lake that has multiple fingers and beautiful scenery on it's 270 miles of shoreline. The water level in the lake is down 40', although an18 year old reported that he has not seen the high level of water (681' above sea level) in his lifetime. There is an assortment of steps, lifts, everything short of a cable car to accommodate that fact that the endless number of docks are now several hundred feet below where they used to be.
This wonderful multigenerational Castille family gathers each year, usually in LA near to Lafayette which was home for the ten siblings as children. At this reunion, banter abounds as does delicious food; bringing a hearty appetite and a love for Cajun cookin' might be the only requirements for a having a great time.
As always, Frank expertly concocted the crawfish-boil-feast where 100 pounds of crawfish simmered in a flavorful, spicy blend of seasonings know only to Frank; with his gumbo's and etoufee's, he is the undisputed chef extraordinaire of the family.
Anna and Jordan enjoying crawfish
For a bus-man's holiday, I managed to spend two lovely afternoons on the lake, one in a speed boat with tube in tow creating merriment for the grandchildren, Anna, Sophia and Jordan, and one afternoon on a pontoon boat with Kurt, Gerald and Jan, Carl and Barbara and Louise and Virgil. For me, being on the water is always preferable to being on land.
Sharon, Chris and Jordan
Jordan and Sophia
Louise and Virgil
Yesterday morning we departed Vero Beach where we spent a night on a mooring at the end of the harbor so it we got to enjoy seclusion in a very crowded harbor. Dolphins with babies slowly meandered around the harbor, onshore Osprey young protested abandonment as mom and pop searched for fish, cormorants relentlessly pursued fleeing fish….it was lovely except that it was too hot and the no-seeums were dogged in their attempts to squeeze through the screens and torment us. Barbecued chicken, guacamole and sliced tomatoes were on tap for dinner….early to bed, early to rise. Our departure was marred by a substantial grounding, imagine my joy at not being the one at the helm:) The grounder did mange to extricate us with no harm done to the props as they are well up from the bottom of the keel and we were in mud; my apologies to all the denizens of the mud who were rudely awakened.
It's deliciously cloudy and a little cooler today, no wind, easy motoring past endless miles of palatial homes perfectly perched on the shore of an ICW area that is punctuated with verdant islands of spoils from year's- ago dredging providing many safe havens to nesting shorebirds.
Last evening the dock slip in Cocoa City Marina provided us the perfect location for a dress-up night out for dinner at Cafe Margaux a lovely little French restaurant; as luck would have it they were having a special:
88 Points Wine Spectator
This wonderful multigenerational Castille family gathers each year, usually in LA near to Lafayette which was home for the ten siblings as children. At this reunion, banter abounds as does delicious food; bringing a hearty appetite and a love for Cajun cookin' might be the only requirements for a having a great time.
As always, Frank expertly concocted the crawfish-boil-feast where 100 pounds of crawfish simmered in a flavorful, spicy blend of seasonings know only to Frank; with his gumbo's and etoufee's, he is the undisputed chef extraordinaire of the family.
Fearless Jordan with killer crawfish
For a bus-man's holiday, I managed to spend two lovely afternoons on the lake, one in a speed boat with tube in tow creating merriment for the grandchildren, Anna, Sophia and Jordan, and one afternoon on a pontoon boat with Kurt, Gerald and Jan, Carl and Barbara and Louise and Virgil. For me, being on the water is always preferable to being on land.
Yesterday morning we departed Vero Beach where we spent a night on a mooring at the end of the harbor so it we got to enjoy seclusion in a very crowded harbor. Dolphins with babies slowly meandered around the harbor, onshore Osprey young protested abandonment as mom and pop searched for fish, cormorants relentlessly pursued fleeing fish….it was lovely except that it was too hot and the no-seeums were dogged in their attempts to squeeze through the screens and torment us. Barbecued chicken, guacamole and sliced tomatoes were on tap for dinner….early to bed, early to rise. Our departure was marred by a substantial grounding, imagine my joy at not being the one at the helm:) The grounder did mange to extricate us with no harm done to the props as they are well up from the bottom of the keel and we were in mud; my apologies to all the denizens of the mud who were rudely awakened.
It's deliciously cloudy and a little cooler today, no wind, easy motoring past endless miles of palatial homes perfectly perched on the shore of an ICW area that is punctuated with verdant islands of spoils from year's- ago dredging providing many safe havens to nesting shorebirds.
Last evening the dock slip in Cocoa City Marina provided us the perfect location for a dress-up night out for dinner at Cafe Margaux a lovely little French restaurant; as luck would have it they were having a special:
Rhone Wine Dinner
Featuring: E. Guigal
One Seating Only at 6:30PM
Reception
2010 Côtes du Rhône Rosé, Côtes du Rhône
"Spicy, white pepper heat curbs this wine's sweet strawberry fruit.
It's simple and easy, with a lavender scent."
It's simple and easy, with a lavender scent."
86 Points Wine & Spirits Magazine
Soup
Shrimp and Crab Bisque
Sherried Creme Fraiche & Basil-Thyme Pistou
Shrimp and Crab Bisque
Sherried Creme Fraiche & Basil-Thyme Pistou
2010 Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Côtes du Rhône
"A very fresh, floral style, with breezy white peach and pear notes and
a juicy, green-almond tinged finish. Drink now."
a juicy, green-almond tinged finish. Drink now."
88 Points Wine Spectator
Salad
Baby Spinach and Bitter Field Greens
Chestnuts and Shaved Beaufort
Apricot Blackberry Vinaigrette
Baby Spinach and Bitter Field Greens
Chestnuts and Shaved Beaufort
Apricot Blackberry Vinaigrette
2010 St Joseph Blanc, St Joseph
"Light gold. A fragrant bouquet displays crisp mineral, floral & pear scents. Fresh pear & apple flavors are nicely focused and refreshingly dry. An understated, focused and mineral-dominated midweight that finishes long and bright."
90 Points IWC
Fish
Wild Salmon and Chevre wrapped in Fillo
Garden Herb Risotto and Lobster Cognac Creme
Garden Herb Risotto and Lobster Cognac Creme
2009 Crozes Hermitage Blanc, Crozes Hermitage
"The 2009 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc is made from an identical blend and has an identical upbringing. It exhibits much deeper fruit (bordering on tropical) in addition to abundant minerality as well as white currant, quince & citrus blossom characteristics.
It is an impressive, medium to full-bodied white to enjoy over the next 2-3 years."
It is an impressive, medium to full-bodied white to enjoy over the next 2-3 years."
90-92 Points Wine Advocate
Duck
Duck Confit over Golden Beet and Fennel Galettes
Citrus Peach Syrah Sauce
2008 Crozes Hermitage Rouge, Crozes Hermitage
Duck Confit over Golden Beet and Fennel Galettes
Citrus Peach Syrah Sauce
2008 Crozes Hermitage Rouge, Crozes Hermitage
"Surprisingly good, the medium-bodied 2008 Crozes-Hermitage exhibits aromas of tomato skin, roasted Provencal herbs, red and black currants, cherries, spice and earth.
It should drink well for several years."
It should drink well for several years."
87 Points Wine Advocate
Veal
Gruyere Crusted Veal Tenderloin
Lyonnaise Whipped Red Bliss Potatoes
Boar Bacon Grenache Reduction
2006 Chateauneuf du Pape, Chateauneuf du Pape
“Bright ruby. Sexy, perfumed aromas of raspberry preserves, potpourri & Asian spices, with a touch of anise in the background. Juicy and appealingly sweet, showing very good depth and vivacity to its red fruit and floral pastille flavors. Picks up a smoky quality with air and finishes with excellent clarity, silkiness & length. This is already drinking very well."
Gruyere Crusted Veal Tenderloin
Lyonnaise Whipped Red Bliss Potatoes
Boar Bacon Grenache Reduction
2006 Chateauneuf du Pape, Chateauneuf du Pape
“Bright ruby. Sexy, perfumed aromas of raspberry preserves, potpourri & Asian spices, with a touch of anise in the background. Juicy and appealingly sweet, showing very good depth and vivacity to its red fruit and floral pastille flavors. Picks up a smoky quality with air and finishes with excellent clarity, silkiness & length. This is already drinking very well."
92 Points International Wine Cellar
Cheese
Morbier, Franche-Comté
2009 St Joseph Rouge, St Joseph
"The 2009 St.-Joseph possesses the most opaque ruby/purple color as well as a big, sweet bouquet of blueberry, black raspberry, cherry, crushed rock, spring flowers, incense & ground pepper. It should drink well for a decade or more. While the generic St.-Joseph is aged in neutral wood barrels, the Lieu-Dit St.-Joseph is kept in new oak for 24 months."
90-92 Points Wine Advocate
Dessert
Callebaut Chocolate Cake
Black Walnut Vin de Noix Mousse
Dark Ganache and Spiked Cherries
Quinta do Noval “BLACK” - Douro, Portugal
Callebaut Chocolate Cake
Black Walnut Vin de Noix Mousse
Dark Ganache and Spiked Cherries
Quinta do Noval “BLACK” - Douro, Portugal
“There are ripe blackberries, tar, smoke & orange liqueur on the nose that takes time to open. The palate is medium-bodied, very sleek on the entry, fleshy black fruits, sloe, spice & just a hint of white pepper, leading to a very focused finish. Drink now-2020."
90 Points Neal Martin, Wine Advocate
Now, none of this is on our diets, but the seven course dinner was sublime and the wine superb!
This morning we have been treated to a glorious sunrise, playful bottleneose dolphins and several relatively close sightings of Roseate Spoonbill; three flew overhead in their Easter-egg pink finery and a small flock mingled with an integrated congregation of fowl on one of the hundreds of small island rookeries that we pass.
The passage through Haulover canal, a .4 mile canal that links the Indian River to Mosquito Lagoon, did not yield the anticipated photo-op; apparently the waterfowl that typically line the shores, standing shoulder to shoulder with fisherman, were busy with nesting duty and not interested in ogling the snow-bird-boat parade, however there were several manatee to delight the senses.
The sailors are happy today with the 20 kts of wind from a direction that is favorable for sailing with a 330 degree course that most of today entailed.
This evening will find us in Daytona Beach where we will by joined by Daniele and visit my sister and her husband for the weekend. Happy Easter everyone!
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Compass Cay, Staniel Cay, Big Major Cay
Compass Cay, Staniel Cay, Big Major Cay
January 27 finds us at the very small, colorful Compass Cay Marina that appears to be a favorite stopover for mega yachts (two at a time) as it provides mega wattage. This is another place that we need mid-tide of above to get into.
A dingy ride brought us a cave perfect for snorkeling exploration where stalactites reach towards stalagmites, and sea creatures appear to ignore the constant force of the waves. I so regret that I do not have books on board for the identification or tropical fish and tropical birds. The rainbow colored parrot fish, yellow snappers and striped sergeant major fish, pale in comparison to the multitudes of fish sporting neon blue, green and yellow arrays of intricate design.
In the spring, many of the Exumas Islands are home to nesting birds; given that it is winter, we have not seen many birds.
Low tide found us walking an endless expanse of sand flats festooned with sea life that has adapted to not being continually submerged in the sea; tolerating several hours, twice a day of low tide. In a very small rivulet that was far from the water’s edge we delighted in finding a small skate who, with a ruffle of his wings, covered himself with sand and thus became invisible. Conch and hermit crabs dwelling in whelk like shells are within arms reach while wadding in knee depth water. Upon picking up a 3-4” whelk, I quickly put it back in the water when the aggressive, not so little crab, with the large claws and mighty reach, silently protested the intrusion.
High tide at the marina found Kurt in the water swimming with the nurse sharks (remember, the friendly ones with no teeth?) When the water is high enough that it covers one of the low docks, the occasional docile shark will swim onto the dock and invite back rubs from delighted humans. What fun!!
Have I mentioned that not only are we blessed to be experiencing all of this, but also the weather Gods have been beneficent. Everyday brings clear skies, moderate winds and perfect temperatures in the high 70’s, low 80’s, with a dip to the 60’s at night for perfect sleep as we gently rock at anchor.
The stopover at the marina at Staniel Cay brought us an opportunity to explore via golf cart, and to re-provision at the three local grocery stores (bright pink, bright yellow and bright blue) on the island. Between the three Easter-egg colored “supermarkets” we were able to buy eggs, half and half, lettuce, ice cream, tomatoes and beer! The prices for each item were roughly double what they would be at home, but the good news is that the freighter from Nassau had just arrived so the produce was fresh.
We bought coconut, whole wheat, and banana bread from the home (bright yellow) of the local “bread lady,” Titta Emil. She at least had the use of a stand-alone Kitchen Aid electric mixer in her tidy kitchen. She was wearing a Cheeka Lodge tee shirt high end resort in Islamorada) and when asked, said that she vacationed there several times, apparently the “bread business provides her with a decent living.
Staniel Cay is the most developed of the Islands that we have visited; modest, well kept homes were scattered throughout Island and there was one mega home being constructed at the top of a rise that provided for a 360 degree of the sea surrounding the Island.
The cruising guide notes that Staniel Cay is home to many rental properties because it “offers the easiest connections and best flights for friends and family to meet you in paradise.” Kurt met a local pilot and when asked he quoted a price of $2,500 to fly to Ft. Lauderdale.
A short trip North from Staniel Cay brought us to a crowded anchorage at Big Major Island, home of the famous swimming wild pigs. More on that later.
My carelessness while anchoring led to my footwear (Croc flip flop) descending to the sea with the anchor and the need for a short dingy ride to retrieve the floating footwear. That led to a lengthy exploration by dingy to Sampson Cay Marina where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch of thin crust pizza and a couple of brews. We introduced to the waiter the concept of mixing a bottle of the local beer, Kalik with a bottle of stout and what emerges is a yummy black and tan! We clearly made his day. The marina is a very lovely place worthy of a stop next time around.
Snorkeling at Thunderball Grotto, a spectacular skylit underwater cave was a highlight; fish resplendent with zillions neon colors and a piece of royal blue fan coral that was spectacular as it undulated and shimmered in the sun’s filtered light; a large grouper appeared the sentinel of the fan.
Back at the anchorage it was late afternoon and the swine were on the beach impatiently waiting for handouts from dingy occupants. Not wanting to disappoint them we brought an offering of carrots and enjoyed (with a little trepidation, it’s a good thing that there is no audio attached to photos) pitching carrot pieces to the swimming pigs that were bold enough to attempt to climb into the dingy. To the trumpet of snorting, pig-protests, when the goodies were gone, the piggies swam back to shore. Does it get better than this!!!
Monday, January 30, 2012
Allan Cay, Exumas
Allen Cay, Exumas
More needs to be said about Highbourn Cay, it is the first inhabited island in the Exumas, it sports a high-end marina that charges for everything but the air that you breathe ($4.00 for a five minute shower, $10.00 to dispose of a small bag of garbage, 40 cents a gallon for water, etc.)
It was late afternoon when we arrived and we needed to get the dolphin cleaned. To do that we had to get the dolphin to the end of the dock on the other side of the marina where there was a fish cleaning station. Luckily a local gentleman offered to clean the fish for us, we in turn, offered half of the fish to him as it was more than we could store and eat. As we walked over to the cleaning station I was impressed to see that the local denizens of the islands, the local nurse sharks, were queued up and ready to be fed. The nurse sharks are deemed “harmless,” “toothless” but is this environment, we have seen over and over again, how they are the local answer to food garbage disposal and they appear to have adapted to this opportunistic feeding; the are analogous to our sea gulls in what they consume. Given their size, two to six (plus) feet, and my observation of their lightening fast snatching-vacuuming ability, I would not be inclined to want to jump in and give them a belly-rub. Of course, interspersed with the nurse sharks was a lemon shark that does have those razor sharp teeth that give sharks their bad rap.
A dingy trip from Highbourn Cay brought us to Allen’s Cay, a unique, protected reserve island that is home to a colony of the Endangered Exumas iguanas. The attractive lizards can live to 80 years, grow to several feet long and can weigh up to 24 pounds, they eat the scrub vegetation that grows on the island.
We landed the dingy on the beautiful white sand beach where there the welcoming committee of 30-40 assorted sized iguanas appeared to be waiting to see what treats we brought. There are prohibitions against feeding the lizards, but most visitors to the island bring iguana kibble so of course we did also. The stealthy populace quickly consumed the contents of our bag of celery, scallion tops and lettuce. Kneeling in the sand with my arm outstretched, several bold beasts quickly grabbed tidbits from my hand; one managed to leap completely off the ground to secure a piece of celery (and the skin from his finger) that Kurt held. How wonderful that this colony of Endangered iguanas is protected from all but the occasional visitor bearing treats.
Warderick Wells Cay, January 22 & 23, 2012
Warderick Wells is home of the Park Headquarters, we managed to secure a mooring in the serpentine shaped deep water channel that runs between Warderick Wells and Narrow Water Cay. We nestled in amongst the sailboats and enjoyed exploring via dingy and the Hobie sail-yak. Snorkeling brought us nose to nose with spiny lobster, graceful rays, crawling conch and endless tropical fish in all their Technicolor finery. Sailing found us in the company of graceful manta rays who didn’t appear to appreciate our mode of transportation; it always surprises me that we see so many large (3’) rays in very shallow water (2-3’.)
A dingy ride brought us to a cut between Hog Cay and the SE end of Warderick Wells; there are moorings in the cut, but with our draft if would be a rocky challenge to get our boat safely to them. A walk along “Escape” beach brought us to a short hill to climb and a magnificent view of the Exuma Sound / Atlantic Ocean on the distant horizon. The Sound-side coastline is constantly awash by the waves and it’s jagged coral edges are accented by the sun glistening off the constantly changing sea.
We spied a small tunnel at Escape Beach that went from the placid inside bay to the Sound-Ocean….and waded around the shoreline where the sea has carved car size concave scoops in the coral that provided sea-life condos for wonderful whelks, mollusks, stromatolites and sea creatures I am wont to describe. Photos do not begin to capture the magnificence or the variety of sea life that is flourishing; thankfully, because of the Park, man will not molest it.
This morning we hiked to the top of Boo Boo Hill, the famous cairn where we placed a placard with our ship’s name on it among the hundreds of other wood planks that commemorate the travels of so many others to this magical place. The hike brought us up close and personal with land crabs dragging their 3” shell homes about with them as the scurry about, little lizards with curly tails, a yellow finch and countless other delights.
While on the mooring we were delighted by the frequent visit of a yellow Warbler (more definite ID to follow) the little fellow made himself at home and partook of the crushed granola, and water offered, but his favorite was Goon Bay Punch and brownies! We so enjoyed his frequent visits to the galley for additional treats, although I fear that we were not necessarily contributing to his overall well-being. He reminded me of the little Yellow Rumped Warbler that hitchhiked with us as we crossed the Delaware Bay.
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Spanish Wells and Eleuthera
Sunday brought us 53 nautical miles across the NW Providence Channel ( aka the Atlantic Ocean) from Little Harbor on Great Abaco Island to St George's Cay, called Spanish Wells, just west of North Eleuthera. We were ushered along by 10-15 kt wind and a following 2-3' seas.
The picturesque working harbor of Spanish Wells is the world's epicenter of the Bahamian lobster, conch and fishing industry. Depending on the source, it is credited with supplying anywhere from 50-70% of the total gross production of spiny lobsters. The 70-100' lobster boats that are processing plants and stay out of 3-4 weeks at a time, tow several smaller (22') center console boats. Once they are in an area where the spiny creatures are known to be, a diver will go out in each smaller boat and with the assistance of a gas driven air compressor on each boat, will dive to 60-90' to retrieve the delicacies. I suspect that the mortality rate among lobster divers is high; locals talk about divers who "aren't right in the head" anymore after going too deep. The mother ship freezes the lobster tail and brings it to shore where they are placed on small freighters that bring them to FL.
Spanish Wells Lobster Boat with tenders
Waterfront in Spanish Wells
Last night we enjoyed a delicious dinner of stone crab claws that measured 7-9," (three to the pound) they can be had at the local fish store/processing plant for $6.00 a pound. I won't share what I paid for claws in Fl last year, but suffice it to say, I could buy four times as many in Spanish Wells. We did not have to purchase the claws as our guests, Rich and Nancy, knew a young woman, Ingrid, who lives on Spanish Wells and she gave them a huge bag of claws.
It's a small world story; while walking to the supermarket on Spanish Wells, we stopped to ask directions from a woman who was sitting on the porch of her house enjoying the magenta hues of the sunset. She inquired where were we from, etc. and she shared that for 20 years she lived in Patchogue and worked in Franks Nursery on Sunrise Hwy. She and her husband retired and 10 years ago bought a home in spanish Wells after vacationing there for 20 years. I still have a Stag Horn Fern that I bought at Franks 35 years ago!
We spent three nights on a mooring in Spanish Wells while a front blustered through, and took advantage of the time to take a ferry to N. Eleuthera, where we rented a car for the day and toured a little less than half of the 90 mile long Eleuthera Island. We first drove to Current (population 131) a tiny town where there is a Current Cut (Eleuthera Panama Canal) with a current of up to 10 kts producing rips and roiled seas that were impressive
We then drove east and south down Eleuthera to the Glass window, a point in the rock spine of Eleuthera, once no more than a natural arch undermined by the ocean, which became a real break from the Ocean to the Bahamiam Banks. It was named for the "look through" window formed by the arch. We drove across the new bridge, the latest in a series of bridges that have been built to replace the ones destroyed by storms.
Our southern most part of the car tour brought us to Hatchet Bay, where abandoned grain silos, remnants of a failed cattle-raising venture loom lofty in the distance. Hatchet Bay has a man-made entrance through limestone cliffs into a landlocked pond, this was accomplished to assure success for the Hatchet Bay cattle-raising project. Apparently needing more than a deep, well protected harbor to be successful, the cattle-raising didn't come to fruition, but today a lovely protected harbor beckons boaters. If we had planned to bring the boat down the West side of Eleuthera, we would have stopped at Hatchet Bay.
Tuesday found again on the Government ferry (no life preservers evident) crossing to Three Islands Dock on N.Eleuthera where we took a taxi and another ferry to Harbor Island which is somewhat analogous to FIre Island off Long Island. We rented a golf car and found our way to multiple paths leading down to 3 miles of blush pink sand beaches on the Ocean.
Government Ferry Boat (the little one in the foreground)
Homes and shops painted in the traditional pastel blue, greens and pinks dot the streets as chickens strut around pecking at unseen morsels. On the harbor front a local stands at the water's edge and cleans conch amidst a mountain of conch shells whose occupants were rudely wrenched from their homes to be skinned, pounded and consumed as salad, chowder, fritters, and fried tasty treats. Lunch at Acquapazza Ristorante, with its panoramic views of the harbor, provided the finishing touches to a beautiful day.
Today, Wednesday, January 18 finds us traversing south from Spanish Wells through Fleeming Chanel from west to east into the Exuma Sound on our way to Highbourne Cay (in the Exumas) where will be be at a marina for two nights and hopefully I will have a wifi connection to reconnect with the world.
The Exuma Cays run northwest to southeast, we will travel mostly on the Exuma Sound side, the east side where there is deep water as we hop from Island to Island.
When we were an hour from our destination, we slowed to trolling speed and put a couple of lines out, we were rewarded with a 5', 48 pound bull dolphin (not the Flipper variety) I was the lucky angler who got to bring the fish in,he is by far the biggest dolphin that I have ever caught and he will be delicous dinner many times over.
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