Departing Charleston

A chilly morning greets us as we depart from Wacca Wache Marina on the Waccmaw River; that has a ring to it doesn't it.  Like fairies with gossamer wings dancing a ballet, the mist dances across the top of the meandering river's surface, barn swallows sporting forked tuxedo tails and buff shirts flit about devouring insect munchies.  The startling white caps of osprey heads pop up in curiosity from their stick nests that adorn the tops of channel  markers.  From the shadows of the forest of Atlantic white cedar, cypress and live oak trees festooned with Spanish moss, the sun peaks through the tree tops casting a verdant glow on the western shore.

Our week in Charleston was enhanced by the companionship of Gloria and Charlie Burton who joined us for five days.  An impromptu visit from Gloria's sister Nanette and her husband Richie was a delight and they joined us in a tour of Magnolia Plantation featuring America's oldest gardens (c. 1680) and garden tour (c. 1870.) The beauty of the gardens awaits around every corner, and  a tram ride brought us through wet lands teaming with waterfowl, alligators and turtles.

 A tour of the Charleston Tea Plantation (the only tea plantation in North America) brought us to the 127 acres of Camellia Sinensis tea plants that are grown in the heart of South Carolina's Lowcountry, complete with a tour of the Tea Factory where the all natural tea is processed.  In addition to learning about the process, the delicious tastings of the variety of teas was a treat.

The Gullah also called Geechee, are African Americans who live in the low country of South Carolina and Georgia including the coastal plain and Sea Islands.  They are the descendants of the slaves brought to this country who have preserved much of their African linguistic and cultural heritage.  The name Gullah is thought to derive from "Gola" an ethnic group living in the boarder area between Sierra Leone and Liberia in West Africa.  Sierra Leone, the "Rice Coast" with it's farms where rice was cultivated for 3000 years, is an area that was "home" to the majority of the individuals who, with their skills of rice cultivation and tidal irrigation, became the slaves with the muscle and mind who virtually assured the success of the Carolina rice plantations.  The Gullah speak an English-based creole language containing many African loanwords and significant influences from African languages in grammar and sentence structure.  A fascinating "Gullah tour" brought us to a greater understanding of the complexities of the trials that the slaves faced and their amazing endurance and ability to survive the overwhelming adversity of slave life while maintaining ties to their heritage.

As mentioned in a "The Ultimate Gullah Cookbook,"
Gullah "Sayin' Grace: Gawd beeba great and e beena good
                                    En we da thank e for we food
                                    By e hand we be fed
                                    Gi us Gawd we daily bread
                                   Amen"
                                                                                 
Our knowledgeable tour guide explained to us about the origins of "Porgy and Bess," the 1934 musical composed by  George Gershwin. It was based on the novel "Porgy," written in 1925 by DuBose Heyward, who was a native of Charleston; the African-American life of the fictions "Porgy" was based on the real-life Charlestonian Samuel Smalls who lived in the tenements of Cabbage Row.

                                                            Resting place of Samuel Smalls

The Gullah tour also brought us to the magnificence of the Angel Oak tree on Johns Island, thought to be between 500 and 1,500 years old, making it one of the oldest live oaks in the country.   At 65' it's relatively short but it does not lack for foliage coverage with its tree trunk size branches covering an impressive 17,000 square feet (.39 acres.)

                                                                    Charlie and Kurt

 Gloria and Charlie were wonderful companions during our stay in Charleston, we enjoyed all the new experiences and sharing the traditional Charleston carriage tour and  the boat trip to Fort Sumter;  of course there is also all that wonderful "low country culinary excellence that we so enjoyed.

Northern Georgia to Charleston; April 9-13, 2012

Sunrise greets us with brisk, 49° temperature,  a howling 22 kt wind and mega current as we pull away from the dock at Isle of Hope Marina. Unfortunately it is dead low tide, fortunately I am not at the helm so I can pretend to ignore the bellowing beep of the depth recorder that is announcing the obvious.  Georgia is the most difficult state to navigate on the ICW; a serpentine ribbon of convoluted twists and turns amid shoaling superimposed on uncharted shallows, it challenges even seasoned yachts persons.  To add to the adrenalin flow, the effects of bank cushion and bank suction occasionally skew the bow towards a not so distant bank of muck with such speed and thrust that the captain could believe that Neptune has taken hold of the vessel and decided to rough-house.  The good news of the low tide is that we fit under one of the bridges that we would otherwise have to wait to open 40 minutes form now.

 On Monday we departed Daytona Beach where we left the boat for a brief shore respite to visit with my sister, Elaine and  and her husband, Ron.  My daughter Daniele joined us for a casual weekend of culinary excess and chocolate, but it was Easter so those chocolate calories do not count; unfortunately my scale did not get that fax.

Several  days ago wanting to exit the ICW for an ocean passage, thereby avoiding some of Georgia, on the shore of the St. John's River and were treated to a view of a grand old vessel the Atlantis II, a 219' Woods Hole Oceanographic Research Vessel that supported the deep-diving three person submersible Alvin, that was instrumental in the of exploration of the remains of the R.M.S. Titanic.  Atlantis II in  her 33 years of service covered over a million miles on 468 cruises while spending 8,115 days at sea in every ocean in the world, visiting 78 nations and over 112 ports while conducting marine research and engineering projects. In 1963 her second voyage was interrupted when the U.S. Nuclear Submarine "Thrasher" sunk 220 miles east of Cape Cod in 8,400 feet of water, tragically extinguishing the lives of 129 sailors.  Atlantis II aided in the search and recorded the first photographs of the remains of the Thrasher, earning her commendation form the U.S. Navy.   She was the among the first research vessels to employ female officers and crew and welcome female scientists:)  If you're interested, she's for sale for $8,800,000.

                                                                           Atlantis II

Day one of our ocean passage was calm and peaceful; Pelicans, flocks of Common Terns, Wilson's Storm Petrel and  Northern Gannets provide eye candy for the soul; small ocean waves gently roll under the hull providing a womb-like peacefulness.  In the distance city-block-size freighters appear on the horizon, later providing navigational challenges with their speed and unyielding bulk as we traverse inlets.

Early in the second day in the ocean, as the wind picked up above 20kts, agitating the seas, (and us) making for an uncomfortable passage( a decidedly erroneous weather forecast by NOAA) we went into St. Simon's inlet back to the ICW while still in Georgia.  As we round the first bend of the waterway our progress is noted by majestic Bald Eagle who warily watches from his lofty perch on a bleached tree branch. Again I was reminded of the natural beauty of the hundred of miles of salt marsh that provide nourishment for the ecosystem.

While in the ocean I hoped to catch a glimpse of any of the few remaining North Atlantic Right Whales that are migrating up the coast from Georgia and Florida where they calve, to the NE from NY to Nova Scotia where they spend the summer.  One of the most endangered whales in the world, fewer than 450 North Atlantic right whales are alive today, the species initially decimated by whaling, is today struggling to survive in an ocean that threatens their survival by entanglement in commercial fishing gear and strikes by behemoth transport ships; nearly three-quarters of the known whales bear scars from past entanglement in fishing gear, while 29% of documented right whale deaths since 1970 are from collisions with ships inflicting a fatal blow to the slow moving baleen whales. Interestingly NOAA, in association with the National Park Service, USCG, the Fund for Animal Welfare and other partners,  has developed system whereby ships can receive real-time warning about the presence of whales through a free app (Whale Alert) on their iPhone or iPad.  The location of the whales is detected through a system of acoustic buoys that listen for the right whale calls in and around the Stellwagen Bank National Sanctuary.  Hopefully this and other conservation/preservation measures will save the whale population.

When underway we always monitor a pair of VHF radios, one always on Channel 16 the U. S. Coast Guard distress and hailing channel where we are privy to a stream of messages from the CG; among them messages  regarding the North Atlantic right whale speed restrictions and voluntary vessel rerouting in certain geographic areas at certain times: http://www.nmfs.noaa.gov/pr/shipstrike/.  All too frequently we hear  "Pan, Pan, Pan" announcements from the Coast Guard regarding information on a signal they received form an EPIRB or a report of a vessel that is "overdue," not having arrived at its destination as planned; mariners are advised to keep a lookout for the vessel.   We almost never have a postscript to these announcements; although we know that one of the "overdue" sailboats reported missing last fall as we cruised south never did safely arrive, it's owner/captain, a surgeon from Charleston presumed lost in the never-to-be underestimated, unforgiving sea.

This morning as we depart the pristine ToogoodooEdisto River in SC., dolphin lazily frolic,  (is that an oxymoron?), pied-billed Grebes appear and disappear beneath the calm surface, as a marbled Godwit pokes the muddy shore seeking a breakfast feast.   We are on our last 30 mile jaunt to Charleston where friends Charlie and Gloria will join us for days of culinary decadence in the midst of historically magnificent architecture.  

We are back from the family reunion (Sylvia's family) in Austin TX @ Lake Travis…a huge man-made lake that has multiple fingers and beautiful scenery on it's 270 miles of shoreline.  The water level in the lake is down 40', although an18 year old reported that he has not seen the high level of water (681' above sea level) in his lifetime.  There is an assortment of steps, lifts, everything short of a cable car to accommodate that fact that the endless number of docks are now several hundred feet  below where they used to be.

This wonderful multigenerational Castille family gathers each year, usually in LA near to Lafayette which was home for the ten siblings as children.  At this reunion, banter abounds as does delicious food; bringing a hearty appetite and a love for Cajun cookin' might be the only requirements for a having a great time.
 As always, Frank expertly concocted  the crawfish-boil-feast where 100 pounds of crawfish simmered in a flavorful, spicy blend of seasonings know only to Frank; with his gumbo's and etoufee's, he is the undisputed chef extraordinaire of the family.

Fearless Jordan with killer crawfish

                                                         Anna and Jordan enjoying crawfish

For a bus-man's holiday, I managed to spend two lovely afternoons on the lake, one in a speed boat with tube in tow creating merriment for the grandchildren, Anna, Sophia and Jordan,  and one afternoon  on a pontoon boat with Kurt, Gerald and Jan, Carl and Barbara and Louise and Virgil.  For me, being on the water is always preferable to being on land.

 

                                                           Sharon, Chris and Jordan

                                                                   Jordan and Sophia

                                                                    Louise and Virgil


Yesterday morning we departed Vero Beach where we spent a night on a mooring at the end of the harbor so it we got to enjoy seclusion in a very crowded harbor.  Dolphins with babies slowly meandered around the harbor, onshore Osprey young protested abandonment as mom and pop searched for fish, cormorants relentlessly pursued fleeing fish….it was lovely except that it was too hot and the no-seeums were dogged in their attempts to squeeze through the screens and torment us.  Barbecued chicken, guacamole and sliced tomatoes were on tap for dinner….early to bed, early to rise. Our departure was marred by a substantial grounding, imagine my joy at not being the one at the helm:)  The grounder did mange to extricate us with no harm done to the props as they are well up from the bottom of the keel and we were in mud; my apologies to all the denizens of the mud who were rudely awakened.

It's deliciously cloudy and a little cooler today, no wind, easy motoring past endless miles of palatial homes perfectly perched on the shore of an ICW area that is punctuated with verdant islands of spoils from year's- ago dredging providing many safe havens to nesting shorebirds.

Last evening the dock slip in Cocoa City Marina provided us the perfect location for a dress-up night out for dinner at Cafe Margaux a lovely little French restaurant;  as luck would have it they were having a special:

Rhone Wine Dinner

Featuring: E. Guigal

One Seating Only at 6:30PM

Reception

2010 Côtes du Rhône Rosé, Côtes du Rhône

"Spicy, white pepper heat curbs this wine's sweet strawberry fruit.
It's simple and easy, with a lavender scent." 

86 Points Wine & Spirits Magazine

Soup
Shrimp and Crab Bisque
Sherried Creme Fraiche & Basil-Thyme Pistou

2010 Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Côtes du Rhône

 "A very fresh, floral style, with breezy white peach and pear notes and
a juicy, green-almond tinged finish. Drink now."

 
88 Points Wine Spectator

Salad
Baby Spinach and Bitter Field Greens
Chestnuts and Shaved Beaufort
Apricot Blackberry Vinaigrette

2010 St Joseph Blanc, St Joseph

"Light gold. A fragrant bouquet displays crisp mineral, floral & pear scents. Fresh pear & apple flavors are nicely focused and refreshingly dry. An understated, focused and mineral-dominated midweight that finishes long and bright." 

90 Points IWC

Fish

 Wild Salmon and Chevre wrapped in Fillo
Garden Herb Risotto and Lobster Cognac Creme

 2009 Crozes Hermitage Blanc, Crozes Hermitage

 "The 2009 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc is made from an identical blend and has an identical upbringing. It exhibits much deeper fruit (bordering on tropical) in addition to abundant minerality as well as white currant, quince & citrus blossom characteristics.
It is an impressive, medium to full-bodied white to enjoy over the next 2-3 years."

90-92 Points Wine Advocate

Duck
Duck Confit over Golden Beet and Fennel Galettes
Citrus Peach Syrah Sauce

2008 Crozes Hermitage Rouge, Crozes Hermitage

 "Surprisingly good, the medium-bodied 2008 Crozes-Hermitage exhibits aromas of tomato skin, roasted Provencal herbs, red and black currants, cherries, spice and earth.
It should drink well for several years."

87 Points Wine Advocate

Veal
Gruyere Crusted Veal Tenderloin
Lyonnaise Whipped Red Bliss Potatoes
Boar Bacon Grenache Reduction

2006 Chateauneuf du Pape, Chateauneuf du Pape

“Bright ruby. Sexy, perfumed aromas of raspberry preserves, potpourri & Asian spices, with a touch of anise in the background. Juicy and appealingly sweet, showing very good depth and vivacity to its red fruit and floral pastille flavors. Picks up a smoky quality with air and finishes with excellent clarity, silkiness & length. This is already drinking very well." 

92 Points International Wine Cellar

Cheese

 Morbier, Franche-Comté

2009 St Joseph Rouge, St Joseph

"The 2009 St.-Joseph possesses the most opaque ruby/purple color as well as a big, sweet bouquet of blueberry, black raspberry, cherry, crushed rock, spring flowers, incense & ground pepper. It should drink well for a decade or more. While the generic St.-Joseph is aged in neutral wood barrels, the Lieu-Dit St.-Joseph is kept in new oak for 24 months."

90-92 Points Wine Advocate

Dessert
Callebaut Chocolate Cake
Black Walnut Vin de Noix Mousse
Dark Ganache and Spiked Cherries

Quinta do Noval “BLACK” - Douro, Portugal

 “There are ripe blackberries, tar, smoke & orange liqueur on the nose that takes time to open. The palate is medium-bodied, very sleek on the entry, fleshy black fruits, sloe, spice & just a hint of white pepper, leading to a very focused finish. Drink now-2020." 

90 Points Neal Martin, Wine Advocate

 Now, none of this is on our diets, but the seven course dinner was sublime and the wine superb!

This morning we have been treated to a glorious sunrise, playful bottleneose dolphins and several relatively close sightings of Roseate Spoonbill; three flew overhead in their Easter-egg pink finery and a small flock mingled with an integrated congregation of fowl on one of the hundreds of small island rookeries that we pass.  

The passage through Haulover canal, a .4 mile canal that links the Indian River to Mosquito Lagoon,  did not yield the anticipated photo-op; apparently the waterfowl that typically line the shores, standing shoulder to shoulder with fisherman, were busy with nesting duty and not interested in ogling the snow-bird-boat parade, however there were several manatee to delight the senses.  

The sailors are happy today with the 20 kts of wind from a direction that is favorable for sailing with a 330 degree course that most of today entailed. 

This evening will find us in Daytona Beach where we will by joined by Daniele and visit my sister and her husband for the weekend.  Happy Easter everyone!