Yesterday, Nov. 27 we departed Charleston after Kurt expertly guided the boat through a 180 degree turn in very tight quarters in the marina with 4kn current against the turn:) Thankfully one of us has great boat maneuvering skills.
Bathed in light winds and warm temps, we glided through endless miles of marshland resplendent with waterfowl. Loons fished along every mile, pelicans carelessly crashed upon the surface, great white egrets stood stately on the shore, and a great blue heron that narrowly missed becoming a figurehead on our bow when he/she misjudged his/her trajectory to an unknown destination. I am reminded that on the way to Charleston we had the treat of viewing the majestic and distinctive flight of a pair of Wood Storks (they are on the endangered list) and I am delighted to learn that each year South Carolina is home to between 800-2,060 Wood Stork nests.
Last night at Beaufort, SC, Kurt got to hone his mechanical skills when he changed the impeller on the port engine that began to overheat 1/3 of the way towards our destination. Thanks to twin engines, it was not a problem that needed immediate attention.
Daufuskie Island awaits at the confluence of the Calibogue Sound and the Cooper River; the name originated from the early settlers identifying their island as "Da Fus Key" (the first key). In the book "The River is Wide,"(a great read) author Pat Conroy chronicled his experience as a schoolteacher on the island when there was no bridge linking the island to the mainland; he taught a small population of direct descendants of slaves brought from Africa who lived an isolated life, having little contact with the outside world.
Just entering the Elba Cut across the Savanna River after yielding to a behemoth freighter who recommended that we "wait" for him to cross in front of us.....duh.....
We managed to enjoy our 11 day stay in "Charleston: City of Arrivals." I am reminded that we started our journey near Ellis Island, NY where countless immigrants including my father and his family who arrived from Kavala, Greece, were welcomed to a new life, now we are in Charleston an earlier port of entry for many.....from the first American Jews arriving from Spain in 1695, to 4 out of 5 of the African slaves brought to toil on American soil.
In 1669, three ships of colonists sailed from England to the New World; after enduring hurricanes, only the ship the Carolina, crowded with many of the the passengers saved from the two wrecked ships, arrived in Charleston in 1670 and started a new community, Charles Towne (named for Charles II), in the protected harbor.
Today Charleston welcomes the visitor with historic homes of antebellum architecture, cobblestone streets, a horizon of church spires and in the distance the distinctive profile of the Ravenel bridge; a carriage tour of the Battery provided us with a glimpse of the unique architecture and gardens that grace the waterfront. We had the pleasure of sharing the Charleston experience with Karen and Tom who seemed to enjoy the wonders of the city as much as we do. The whirlwind tour included house tours of the Nathaniel Russel House, c.1808; Calhoun Mansion, c. 1876 @ 24,000 square feet, stuffed to the gills with antiques and collectibles and a visit to the H. L. Hunley the first submarine ever to sink an enemy ship (USS Housatonic), unfortunately for the crew of eight the Hunley sank; it was not located and raised until 1995 and 2000 respectively. On April 17, 2004, the Hunley crew members were buried with full Confederate Military honors at Magnolia Cemetery following a 4.5 mile, horse-drawn, caisson procession through downtown Charleston; the "last Confederate burial."
We delighted in the tour of Middleton Place, the grand 18th-century rice plantation featuring 65 acres of gardens first designed by Henry Middleton in 1741, and in 1941 the Garden Club of America recognized Middleton Place as America's oldest landscaped gardens and the "most interesting and important garden in America."
We delighted in the tour of Middleton Place, the grand 18th-century rice plantation featuring 65 acres of gardens first designed by Henry Middleton in 1741, and in 1941 the Garden Club of America recognized Middleton Place as America's oldest landscaped gardens and the "most interesting and important garden in America."
Kurt stands camouflaged against the magnificent Middleton Oak, estimated to
be least 900 years old with a height of 67', girth of 32.8' and spread of 118.'
Centuries-old Camellias bloom in winter months
No visit to Charleston would be complete without a harbor cruise to visit Fort Sumter (I always want to put a "p" after the m). On December 20, 1860, South Carolina was the "First to Act"when it seceded from the Union, yet Union forces still occupied Fort Sumter and refused requests to surrender. Finally on April 12, 1861 South Carolina Confederate troops led by Major Beauregard fired on Sumter from nearby Fort Johnson in a two day bombardment that resulted in the the surrender of the fort by the Union commander, Major Anderson, and the start of the Civil War. The South held Fort Sumter until 1865; during that time the fort experienced one of the longest sieges in modern warfare, when an estimated 46,000 shells, thought to be more than seven million pounds of metal, were fired at the fort.
Fort Sumter
In-between all the activities we managed to sample some of Charleston's fine "Lowcountry" cuisine at Blosson's, Magnolias Hyman's, Jestine'sFrogmore stew; Frogmore is a community on St. Helena Is., SC identified by the post office that has giant metal frog in front:) The Lowcountry stew is a seafood boil with shrimp, crab, sausage, and corn on the cob and reportedly was "invented" by the owner of Gay seafood in Beaufort when he prepared a cookout for fellow National Guardsmen.
I am quite sure we enjoyed Charleston as much as you two! Shrimp & grits forever! Thanks for the post and pix. We watched the Sutherland-Assante film "The Hunley" night before last, a good re-creation and heart-rending end.
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